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© Broadland Memories 2006-2026

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Part 3

Saturday June 27th 1914

Whitlingham to Reedham

The concluding sentence in last night’s log requires revision.  As has already been noted, the smell at Whitlingham, arising from the sewage-farm downstream, was very pronounced, and this had upset the stomach and mind of poor old “Capt.  Kittle,” as the Skip would call him.  He couldn’t forget or forgive it.  He called the place everything he could think of, and threatened to pack up and spend the night in Norwich.  He wouldn’t come to such a place again if a yacht were given him filled with the most tempting viands.  It was a shame and a scandal, and ought to be instantly suppressed.

And he was quite right, mind you!  It certainly was a bit thick, and no doubt prevents many yachts coming so far up the river, most of them stopping at Cantley, (where Regatta was held on Wednesday and Thursday last.)

‘Erb’s admiration for General Jeff was intense.  A man who could have the foresight to provide aromatic papers for burning to disinfect the room, was, in his eyes, a hero and almost deserving of a Victoria Cross.

By degrees, and with the aid of a “night-cap” and numerous hilarious remarks on the part of the Purser, Capt. Kittle was at length persuaded to seek his bunk (which is in the vicinity of “sticky corner”, so named from the fact that the bottles of Zitrol, various jams and other glutinous messes have been upset there).

Fortunately the wind changed in the night, and by the time we woke in the morning the obnoxious effluvia had departed.

A bright hot sun greeted us as we gathered on deck in our pyjamas for washing-drill.  The crew unanimously declined a dip this morning as they have taken a sanitary dislike to the spot, and the river was not very tempting.

I am sorry that only three of us visited the old Thorpe Reach, which is by far the prettiest reach we are likely to see; but the weeds were so thick there that it was almost impossible to row the boat.

The Skipper was not due to return until 11 o’clock, and before breakfast “Bertlet” put the sail up in the Jolly-boat, and pottered up and down the reach under a very light breeze, while the others arrayed themselves in a more respectable garments.  Smoked Haddock was enjoyed for breakfast, and then visits to the Post Office, fishing, and paper-reading filled up time until Skipper’s return.  After which we quanted a few hundred yards to the shade of some trees, where fresh water was taken on board.

What wind there was, blew in our favour, but at times it was insufficient to move the boat.  Then the sun came out in all its intensity and the glare was awful.  It was too hot to smoke, read, or talk much, so we lolled in the deckchairs and in the well, shutting our eyes and dreaming as we lazily glided over the sluggish water.

Someone inadvertently remarked that it was 2.00 and time for lunch, but no one seemed to want any.  The Pot-boy offered to make some shandy gaff in a jug, or rather he suggested it should be made, and was at once commissioned by the rest of the crew to carry the job through himself.  This he did, (with an effort) and with the addition of a banana each, this formed our frugal lunch.  Pa said it was “Starvation,” but quieted down on hearing we were to have a fish tea about 4 o’clock.

The breeze now freshened somewhat, which not only help to our boat along but helped our spirits to revive.  Henry, (who loves a quant) did a bit of work between the puffs of wind, and the Purser gave us some delightful selections on the Gramophone. (Which sounds exceedingly well on the water: the words being heard much more clearly than in a room.)

The Bertlet’s leg has been rather painful lately, and has to be bathed in hot water two or three times a day.  This is done in the well, in which position he is of course the butt of the brilliant wits of the other members of the crew.

Brundall and Cantley were passed under swelled canvas, and soon we observed the Bridge at Reedham swinging round to allow us to pass through.

We moored at the lower end of the village with the Church just peeping over the rushes.  All the crew, with the exception of Bertlet, journeyed into the village to post letters and procure stores.

I can hear them returning, so as there will be no more peace now for a bit I will dry up.

Purser, Will and Woody turned up with some bread, cream-cheese and butter, saying that the other three had been left to view the old church which could be seen a short distance away.

On passing the local Constitutional Club, Pa saw the evening newspaper sticking out of the letter-box, which he immediately proceeded to appropriate.  He was only induced to return it by the united remonstrances of the remaining members of the Party.  Pa tried to explain it away by saying the place looked shut up; but this obvious excuse only excited the risibility of the others.

On the way it to view the church, ‘Erb espied the local rifle-range 7, and at once challenged the other two to a match.  Made were received by those in charge with great cordiality, and fired a round of ten shots each with much success.  ‘Erb also had a round on the 50-yard range, and showed his good marksmanship by scoring 4 Bulls and 2 outers.

After dinner, a game of cards and some music finished another happy day.

 7 It should hear been noted that Major Astley, who at one time lived at Fern Cottage, Weston Road, Bath, is President of the Reedham Rifle Club, and the range was opened by his wife.  We also discovered later that he is Commodore of the Yacht Club.

Sunday June 28th 1914

Reedham to Potter Heigham

The “bouys”, having passed a very excellent night in sweet repose, (even Pa was a little more silent 8 than usual during the night) we were all awakened at 5 o’clock, as arranged, to start upon our journey for Yarmouth.  Bathing was the next item discussed, and the two fearless members of our party, ’Enery and ‘Erb, elected to have a “dowse” in the fast-running tidal river, at the same time receiving various warnings from the rest of the party as to the strength of the tide.  These warnings were evidently considered by the two bathers, who found it impossible to make any headway whatever against the strong current.  Alf had some tea ready just after six, which was swallowed with gusto, after which we sailed merrily for Yarmouth, which place was reached at 8 o’ clock.  By this time, the Pot-boy was asking several questions as to what time the Post Office opened on Sundays, and received much good-humoured banter on that subject, in which he joined in the laugh, enjoying the joke as much as anyone.  The post was eventually procured, and tracks were made back again for breakfast at 9 o’clock.  By this time the morning was perfect, and the sun shone down upon us with much heat.  At 9.30 we cast our moorings, making for Acle, upon which journey much tacking and quanting was necessary, ’Enery, ‘Erb and ‘Arry coming to the rescue.

Acle was reached at 1.30, and the Skipper then informed us that the wind was very much in our favour, and that it would be advisable to make for Potter Heigham in an hour’s time, after having our lunch of cold beef and lettuce.  During lunch time ’Enery suggested that we ought to have had boiled eggs, onions, mayonnaise, etc. to make a salad, and so “help down” the cold beef; but was at once “told off” by the Purser to the effect that “we were living much too well as it was.” This good-humoured banter is continually being practiced on three or four of the crew, which of course is all taken in good part.

Potter Heigham, (which was reached at 5 o’clock) is an extremely pretty place, with the various crafts and bungalows, and well-kept gardens.  Many of the fair sex were noted in the gardens, also in the boats; and altogether, taking an average of the craft seen on the water, one might estimate that nine-tenths of them contained ladies.  After tea, “Jeff and Pa”,  taking the letters for post and being desirous of seeing the village church, the Bertlet and Pot-boy offered to sail them as far as the bridge, which was accomplished in quick time.  After dinner, however, ’Arry and ‘Erb seemed to want to risk their lives in the sailing dinghy boat, and the Bertlet was very anxious to see them off to see how they would fare.  They departed midst of the laughter of the whole party, and narrowly missed running down a barge!  They however arrived back quite safely owing to the slight amount of wind blowing.

Selections on the gramophone were given until bedtime, when nothing broke the stillness but “Pa’s” tuneful slumbers.

 8 In justice to Pa, it should be mentioned that he was not the only one who indulged in nocturnal melodies.  But more of this anon.

Monday, June 29th 1914

Hickling and Horsey

After a peaceful night, broken only by the noise of Pa following his usual occupation, in which he was joined at intervals by Henry, we were roused from our slumbers at 7.30 by Skipper vigorously scrubbing the deck.  ‘Erb however had been astir much earlier; suffering from fishing fever, he arose at 3.30 to haul in his eel-line, on which he found his largest catch; still feeling restless, he remained for a time fishing with a rod and caught a small eel and two or three other small fish, which were returned to the stream.  While sitting there, a couple passed, the man remarking “you’re up early, sir,” to which ‘Erb replied, “Yes, you’re not so very late.”

Five of the party indulged in a swim before breakfast, Pa also joining them, and Will and Jeff who had volunteered to walk to the Post Office the letters, were taken as far as the bridge in the Jolly-boat by Bert.

The eel which ‘Erb had hauled in early, and also the two caught last night were cooked for breakfast by Alfred, and provided an excellent addition to the meal, being much enjoyed by those who partook of them.

Our Dinghy being too small to take the whole party it was decided to hire a half-decker for the trip to the Broads above Potter Heigham.  This was done, in a very comfortable boat named “Vive L’amour” being procured from Messrs.  Applegate’s yard.  Skipper, who is a sport, came with us, having undertaken to manage the boat.

On our passage up the Thurne we noticed a large eel net being repaired on the river bank, and were also very much amused at a pair of ancient mariners on board a barge.  They reminded us very much of a pair of music-hall comedians.

Turning out of the river Thurne through Kendal dyke we came to Heigham Sound, which gave us our first glimpse of the real wild broads.  We were all delighted, especially ‘Erb who would like to spend a holiday there fishing.  Reeds abound everywhere, and they are simply teeming with wildlife.  The water is very shallow in places and we were able to watch the fish darting about.  Our way was marked by means of posts driven in at the deepest parts.  We passed one boat that had evidently ignored them and run aground.

We were particularly struck with the large number of dragon-flies, some of them being very fine specimens.  The water-lilies were also very profuse, and Pa quickly proceeded to pick one, thus unwittingly breaking one of the unwritten laws of the broads.

Shortly before we reached Hickling Broad we passed one of the curious flat-bottomed boats used during the winter months, when the shooting and snaring of wildfowl is in progress.  These birds abound in the wild reaches, and we saw a great many of them.  But the shooting is strictly preserved, being the property of the land-owners.

The “Pleasure-Boat” lnn, at the top of Hickling Broad, was reached at 1 o’clock, and here we partook of a lunch of bread and cheese which we brought with us, and a “shandy-gaff” composed of “home-brewed” and stone ginger, provided by the host of the lnn.  A diversion was caused by a couple of swans and five ducks which we fed from the bank.

Returning across Hickling Broad, we found it necessary to take to the oars, all taking their share of the work.  The water was as clear and smooth as glass.Turning to our left through old Meadow Dyke we reached Horsey Mere, where, the wind being in our favour, we had a brisk sail across to Horsey, reaching the staithe at 3.30. Pa caused much amusement by continually threatening to give Henry “such a biff”, but it never came off.

After mooring the boat, a procession was formed to walk to the sand dunes, which Bertram said were a short distance away.  It however proved to be a good mile and a half.

Arrived on the sandy beach, we all stripped and were soon in the sea, enjoying a “top-hole” bathe.  ‘Erb, who had been grumbling at the distance, thoroughly enjoyed it, and was very loathe to leave the water; all agreed that it was worth the tramp and voted it the bathe of the trip.

On our way back to the boat we noticed dozens of rabbits running about in the rough grass.  Somewhat fatigued, we reached a cottage near the staithe, where an excellent tea, ordered by ‘Erb, was partaken of and polished off with great gusto.

The return journey was commenced at 6 o’clock, a brisk breeze taking us across the Mere and through the dyke.  It was necessary to tack across Heigham Sound, and then Bert and Henry took to the oars, their strong strokes proving very useful.  ‘Erb took charge of the sail, which he managed very skilfully under the Skipper’s directions, but Bert, looking on with envious eyes, constantly complained of his “want of skill.”

The bridge was reached at 7.30.  Henry and the Purser went foraging while ‘Erb and Will made for the Post Office for letters, the others returning to “The Spree.” Alfred, who had remained behind to clean up, had supper waiting, after which Gramophone selections, letter-writing, and baiting of the eel-line finished up and most enjoyable day, all being glad to turn in at 10.30.

‘Erb and the Purser, finding the cabin too warm, took them mattresses out into the well, which they found very comfortable.

Tuesday June 30th 1914

Potter Heigham to Ludham

A beautiful bright morning with every indication that the day was going to be warm, and up to noon it certainly was the hottest we have experienced up to now.  As a fair breeze sprang up, Bertram the irresponsible, (where the sailing of the dinghy is concerned) accompanied by the Pot-boy, Henry, and Pa went for a sail as far as the bridge, the wind being in our favour.  It was on the return journey when the marvellous skill of Bertlet was manifested, the tacking being extremely clever; in fact we occasionally made about 3 feet and dropped back 3 ½.  So our “Skip” called “out oars,” and Henry and Pa promptly answered to it, and by their powerful strokes soon got some way on the craft.  At this Point I must mention that the Glee-singing of the party is quite a feature, and altho’ the sun’s fierce rays were pouring down upon us, we most appropriately and efficiently (?) rendered that exquisite Part-song “See the Sun sinks in the West”, with such charming effect that as we approached the yacht, the remainder of the crew, including the Skipper and Alfred, rushed up on deck so as not to miss a note of the music.

Wind and tide being still against us our Skipper decided not to make a move until after tea, so after lunch we were all engaged most industriously in writing to our beloved ones at home.

Potter Heigham is just now looking very charming, the large number of yachts and craft of every description, together with bungalows on the bank with gardens prettily laid out, making a delightful and fair spot to look upon.  On returning from post ‘Erb very thoughtfully brought home some strawberries which were much enjoyed, especially by Henry, to whose capacious maw nothing comes amiss.  It is owing to this, we think, that the deep nasal exercises of the aforesaid Henry are attributed, and is in striking contrast to the dulcet notes of Pa.

An early tea being dispatched, our Skipper set sail, and ably assisted by the indefatigable ‘Erb, Bert, Harold and Henry, we were soon making good progress to Ludham Bridge, where we moored for the night.  Our fishermen were soon at work, with rod and eel-line.  One poor little eel was caught by mistake, and after the united efforts of ‘Erb, Bert and Harold to extricate it, was promptly restored to its native element, somewhat the worse for its tender (?) treatment.  Otherwise, like the fishermen of old, “they toiled all night and caught nothing.” The remainder of the evening was spent quietly, listening to an excellent selection of music on the Gramophone, and a pleasant rubber of Bridge.  Bed 10.30.

Wednesday July 1st 1914

Ludham Bridge to Barton Broad & Ranworth

A suggestion overnight that we should do Barton Broad before breakfast, having a cup of tea etc.  at 4, was at first well received, but one by one crew began to waver in their resolution: so all had the usual dip about 7.30, breakfast following.

It had been very hot yesterday and it promised to be even warmer today, there being very little breeze, which meant towing or rowing the Jolly-boat, assisted by the Admiral at the tiller juggling with the sail.  Pa announced his intention of staying with the skipper and Duke to look after the “Spree,” so the remaining six, after dropping below Ludham Bridge, set sail for Barton Broad.

It took us a long time to get out of sight of the Bridge, and the call was soon made for volunteers for the oars, and as the wind almost failed, we were kept at it like slaves in a galley.  The heat was intense and ‘Erb began to get dry, and it did not improve matters when we were told by some farm labourers that the nearest pub was two miles away.  By a bit of luck we struck a cottage where we could get some ginger-beer, and being cheered by this and the intelligence that we were only 10 minutes now from the Broad, we set off again.  Partly rowing and partly sailing round the Broad, we had an exciting race with a Red-sail craft, “manned” by two charming damsels, to make the mouth of the River Ant on our return journey, and came in a gallant second owing to the magnificent handling of our craft by Admiral Bertlet.

The maidens, who were certainly the nicest we have seen on the broads, proved most kind, and even volunteered to allow our photographic friends to snap them while bathing, on condition that we forwarded copies of the photographs to Catfield Rectory where they resided.

After parting with them with great reluctance, and ‘Erb having once more imbibed ginger-beer, we started for home, which by this time had floated down on the ebb-tide to Antmouth.  The wind proved much more favourable than we expected, and we were able to sail a fair number of reaches.

Soon Pa was sighted on the end of the counter, favouring us with his usual benign smile, looking as if he had enjoyed a good lunch.

It being very hot, we all tumbled into the water for a “refresher”, before refreshing the inner-man.

Sail was now set, and in a very short time we were moored in Ranworth Broad, the “Hazzard” which had moored with us at Ludham Bridge, soon following us and taking up the adjoining berth.  It contained a party from the Argentine who proved very agreeable neighbours, a Spanish lady being very interesting and a keen “fisher.”

A cup of tea at 4.30 was much appreciated on account of the intense heat, which we read in the papers was the record, and we thanked our Lucky Stars we were not in a stuffy town with regulation clothes to wear, in fact some members of the party turned up to meals in very scant attire, especially the Pot-boy.

The Purser being somewhat overcome with the heat, Capt.  Kettle and Bertlet volunteered to walk to South Walsham for stores, and were pleased with their “haul.”

On the return journey they were met by other members of the party who had been to Ranworth Church, where a most interesting carved Rood Screen with monks’ benches was examined, also a very old Antiphoner which had been sold from the church in the time of Edward VI, and recently repurchased by the parishioners from the “Huth” collection at a cost of £500.

At Walsham two interesting Churches are to be seen side by side.  It appears two maiden ladies decided to build a church but could not agree as to the style of Architecture; they thereupon decided to build one each, and for years there was a Rector and a Vicar, living in a Rectory and a Vicarage, side by side.  However, one of the churches was partially burnt down, and only half the tower now stands; so there is only one clergyman for both churches at the present time.

Sailing the Jolly-boat on the Broad, a game of Bridge, and fishing, closed a warm but delightful day, and soon the midnight minstrels were performing their naval chorus, led by the indefatigable “Pa.”

Marginal Note

A thunderstorm hovered round us, and late in the evening vivid flashes of lightning were to be observed in the distance.

A strong gust of wind suddenly sprang up as we were retiring to rest, and we thought that ‘Erb and Purser, who, like “Pussy” have taken to sleeping in the well, would have a rough night.  But nothing happened to disturb our slumbers.

Continued on the next page ……